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This is not to say that placement of those you choose not to keep is not important. It is. A breeder who breeds for health and temperament needs to track his animals, and a breeder who loves the rats will want to place those he does not need to keep in loving, responsible homes. That all fits together, though, as he will need to hear about their progress throughout their lives to get a better picture of the health of the line. Finding these good homes for the animals is easier said than done. It takes quite a bit of time communicating, interviewing, etc. with potential homes, and then there is the time spent meeting people and making the actual placements. After, there is paperwork and a lifetime of follow-up on each pup, but this is, again, necessary to gathering information regarding the health of your lines. It is a lifetime commitment once you have bred animals and placed any of them, even one, anywhere outside of your home.
Besides time spent finding suitable homes for the rats from the litters that you will not keep, figure in the time you will spend researching health/disease/treatments, temperament/behavior, type/color/markings and husbandry/care of rats. There will be the time you spend cleaning cages, feeding, watering and playing with your rats. These are all ongoing, and they are going to take quite a bit of time out of every week. When you have a litter, you will spend even more time just to care for, clean up after and interact with the pups. Then there are the photos, website updates and recordkeeping that go with raising a litter.
If you will not be quarantining your animals properly, you can expect very high bills for medications, treatments and testing for viruses. If you are quarantining properly, these things are much less likely to come in (except, perhaps, testing which is a good idea if you bring in new animals or allow visitors to the rattery), but you should still be prepared. If you are considering breeding, do take into account the cost of visits to the veterinarian especially as rats get older and when you have females breeding. Older rats tend to need to see the vet more often than young ones, but a good breeder will keep his retired animals rather than placing them, and he will care for them as his beloved pets until it is their time to go.
When figuring costs, do not just look at start-up and consider it done. Cages, toys, hammocks, water bottles, etc. do need to be replaced periodically. These costs will be in addition to the lab blocks, fresh foods and bedding/litter the animals need to thrive.
If you think you can reach your goals in a litter or two or even four or five, your goals are not set nearly high enough. If you are not willing or able to work to learn about the animals and what is right for them, how they should look, act and move, what makes a rat healthy genetically and what keeps him that way environmentally, then you will not do the fancy any good by breeding rats. If you are not willing to find suitable animals to start working from, then you will not be doing the fancy any good. The decision whether or not to breed is up to you, but what you decide affects the animals directly. If you do not know why you are doing it, if you do not have clear goals and a plan on how you are going to help the rats, then do not make more of them.
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